Monday, May 7, 2018

Your Off-Leash Dog Is Ruining My Walk



Lately it seems there aren't many places I can walk with my dogs that we don't encounter off-leash dogs.   Most cities have leash laws requiring that dogs be on-leash in public places,  parks, neighborhoods, etc.  If your dog is not on your property, it's safe to assume they should be on a leash.  This seems to be difficult for many people to understand because everywhere I go lately I'm being chased by loose dogs.   I don't think people understand that dogs running into the street, charging at on-leash dogs and wandering into other peoples yard is not  OK!  

It's hard enough walking past the dogs who are charging their 'fence line' barking and growling, add to that the dogs who charge you in the street while their owners are no where to be found or quite frankly don't care.   It's no surprise there are so many reactive/fearful dogs, all it takes is one negative experience.  

When I'm walking with my dogs we want to have a relaxing walk, I don't enjoy walking the gauntlet, never knowing when we'll be ambushed.  I don't enjoy turning my walk into your dogs training session as I'm forced to deal with them, catch them, bring them home, or figure out how to get away form them! 

Here are a few things to consider when you choose to let your dog run loose:

  • You're not following leash laws!
  • Your dog has the freedom to roam on your property.......your property does not extend into the street or other peoples yards
  • The on-leash dog is trapped and will often respond very defensively
  • All our hard work can go right down the drain if my dog is scared or injured by your dog
  • The on-leash dog can be recovering from injury or surgery, the last thing they need is to be jumped by another dog
  • The on-leash dog may not be friendly towards other dogs
  • Your dog can be hit by a car
  • I'm stuck trying to manage chaos when all I wanted to do was walk with my dog
  • You're taking away my freedom to safely walk my dog in public

I understand that occasionally dogs get loose, those aren't the dogs I'm referring to,  I'm talking about the dogs who are running loose all the time.  Most people don't realize that there are fines, up to $200 if your dog is running loose.  The fine can be even higher if your dog is not licensed.......which many dogs aren't.  

So why does this bother me so much..........ten years ago while walking my dog in my I was attacked by a loose neighbor dog.  He had a long history of chasing people and biting them, yet nothing was done about it.  On my walk he charged us in the street, pulled me down, dragged me, attacked my dog, it was absolutely terrifying.   I spent years in Physical Therapy and had to have multiple surgeries to repair both my shoulders.  My dog was never the same after that, he never again enjoyed walking on-leash.   

I've witnessed horrible fights between dogs, watched owners being dragged on the ground because an off-leash dog was chasing them and I work with MANY clients whose dogs are struggling with stress and anxiety due to dog-to-dog issues from their walks.  

Please think about the fall out that comes from thinking it's no big deal to let your pup run loose. 




Saturday, March 31, 2018

How To Spot A Fake Service Dog Trainer





If we are going to address the problem with  fake service dogs,  we should consider starting with the source of the problem..........Fake Service Dog Trainers. 

How can you spot a 'Fake' Service Dog Trainer??

1.  Fake Service Dog Trainers do not have any type of screening process or temperament testing for the dogs they work with.   Their websites often state the programs or services they offer, but the will not require any type of screening or assessment of the dog.   As long as you're willing to pay them, they will work with you.

2.  Fake Service Dog Trainers can't answer questions regarding ADA Service Dogs Laws, nor do they understand them. 

3.  Fake Service Dog Trainers are not affiliated with any legitimate Service Dog Program such as the IAADP, an organization that provides standards for training and working Service Dogs.

4.   Fake Service Dog Trainers tell clients they will have a 'Certified Service Dog' when there technically isn't a group that certifies Service Dogs.  This is still an unregulated industry, thus why there are so many problems.

5.  Fake Service Dog Trainers rarely talk about the dogs that are not suited for Service Dog work.  A legitimate Service Dog Trainer knows that close to 50% of dogs who begin the training process are career changed due to behavior or health concerns. 

6.  Fake Service Dog Trainers don't tell their clients that it takes approximately 2 years to train a Service dog.  The training process is a big commitment with NO guarantees.

7.  Fake Service Dog Trainers encourage clients to purchase  ID badges, vests and bogus medical letters off the internet so they can take their dogs into public places and pass them off as trained Service Dogs. 

8. Fake Service Dog Trainers offer 'Boot Camp' training programs, a 2-4 week program that 'guarantees' a trained Service Dog upon completion.

9.  Fake Service Dogs Trainers do not understand the developmental needs of young dogs, often pushing them beyond their abilities.    A legitimate Service Dog Trainer will only work with a dog who 'wants' the job, they do not claim to turn any dog into a Service Dog.

10. Fake Service Dogs Trainers rarely have any type of formal training or credentials, they are 'self made' trainers.

To understand how to spot a Fake Service Dog, and to better understand the ADA Service Dog laws, see the link below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DY4rKPdRiY8


For Trainers interested in working with Service Dogs, see the link below.  Cooperative Paws offers a program that teaches trainers how to work with Service Dogs and their humans.   This comprehensive program gives trainers the tools they need to effectively work with teams.

 https://cooperativepaws.com/service-dog/

We need to protect the rights of legitimate Service Dogs and the life changing work they do,


Monday, March 19, 2018

Walking Your Dog Is More than Just 'No-Pulling' On Leash

Having a dog who is comfortable and relaxed on walks requires a commitment of time and training from the day your puppy joins your family.    I want Dillon to walk without pulling on leash , but I also want her to feel relaxed around the MANY distractions and stressors we encounter.  From Pup Start Class thru Outdoor Adventures Class we work on navigating the challenges encountered on walks.  

Today was a perfect example of why all of the hours of training is necessary.  My husband and I headed out to our local park with Dillon for a 3 mile walk.  On the first half of the walk we encountered dogs who were growling and lunging at Dillon.   After hundreds of hours of walks Dillon knows that seeing other dogs results in 'good things', clicks and treats.  I do not force her into a sit or down, I prefer we keep moving,  we add distance between ourselves and the other dog and just keep going.   Over time Dillon has learned to walk past just about anything with barely a pacing glance.  

Today we had the ultimate test of our training and ability to manage chaos .  While walking I saw someone walking 2 dogs, both were struggling and becoming more reactive as we came into their view.  Their owner did a great job of adding distance so that we could pass each other without incident.   As we walked on I heard someone yelling 'my dog is loose", one of the dogs had gotten out of his collar and head halter and was charging us from behind.   Before I could turn around the dog was on top of Dillon.   His initial reaction was that he wanted to play, but he was getting more amped up and frustrated.  The owner was about 20 feet away holding his other dog who was growling, so I asked him not to come any closer.  My priority was to keep Dillon safe.  The owner tried calling his dog back to him but he was too distracted and did not respond.....not a surprise.  I then asked my husband to go to the owner and get the dogs collar and leash so we could catch him.  My husband tried, but the dog would not allow him to leash him up.  I then started tossing treats in the opposite direction for the loose dog to get him to move away from Dillon .  I handed Dillons leash to my husband and asked him to start walking her away so that I could try to catch the loose dog.   The other dog started growling at Dillon so I had John stop moving and I tried distracting the other dog with hand clapping, 'happy voice'  and moving in the opposite direction to get him to follow me as he was too focused on Dillon.   It's hard  to remain calm when something like this is happening, but if the humans behavior escalates it can increase the likelyhood of a conflict.   Having been the victim of a dog attack I  know all too well how dangerous this could have become.    I was finally able to get his collar on him and return him to his owner.  

I politely shared with the owner that walking 2 reactive dogs by himself was probably not a good idea!!   If I had been alone this could have had a very bad ending.   My husband said had he been alone he would not have known what to do, as would be true of most anyone out for a walk with their dog.    

As we finished our walk John and I  talked about the challenges of encountering other dogs who have challenges.   The only thing I can do is help my dogs  navigate these situations as it seems that it's becoming more frequent.   I do avoid places that allow off- leash dogs and we avoid walking at peak times so we aren't stressed the entire time.  I was so impressed with how Dillon handled this crazy situation, she's one awesome pup :)   

** It is important to note that if your dog is not enjoying walks, is reactive or aggressive towards humans other other dogs, seek professional help and avoid public places**

Tuesday, March 13, 2018

Helping Your Dog Find Their Comfort Zone


How do we help puppies and dogs who struggle with fears, phobias and anxiety?  A good starting point is understanding your dogs triggers, the things that make your dog anxious or afraid.  What causes your dog to go over their threshold and change from a calm relaxed state to one of panic or fear?  What makes them feel like they have no alternative other than to use aggressive displays or to run and hide?

The link below is an article that does a great job describing what it feels like for a dog to be 'drowning' in their fears and how certain types of 'training' can make things considerably worse.

https://paws4udogs.wordpress.com/2012/05/04/drowning/

It's not hard to find articles or products promoting 'quick fixes', ways in which you can quickly solve any problem.    There is no shortage of advice from friends, family and dog professionals....and I use that term lightly :) 


  • Dog is afraid of kids......take them to a park and ask lots of kids to pet them
  • Dog is nervous around other dogs......take him to the dog park
  • Puppy is anxious in their crate........don't let them out until they learn to like it
  • Dog is barking, lunging and aggressing towards other dogs.......sign up for a group class
  • Dogs is misbehaving, send him to Boot Camp so he can be fixed in a few weeks


Somewhere in this process we  lose sight of the dogs ability to participate or cope with what's happening to  them.   Understanding that not all problems can be 'fixed' is not always easy to hear,  but important to consider when working with puppies and dogs who have problems. 

When I work with clients my primary goal is to improve the puppy or dogs quality of life.    We should always work to problem solve, modify behavior, encourage change and celebrate success.  But sometimes we need to adjust our expectations and focus on helping our dog find their comfort zone, perfection should not be the  only sign of success.

I know a wonderful dog, he's fun loving, amazing house manners, loves people and other dogs,  enjoys going to training classes, excellent student and demo dog, you couldn't ask for a more wonderful dog.  He does however have anxiety issues that at times make life very difficult.  After nearly 2 years of behavior modification, medication and making accommodations to his daily routine he has found his 'comfort zone'.   He no longer has to go for  walks at the park, because he never really enjoyed them......he gets to play in his huge fenced yard where he feels safe and gets more than enough exercise.  He does not enjoy going into strange public places, so he only walks in his neighborhood.   He loves spending time with his family and riding in the car,  so he is the designated co-pilot when they run errands or take road trips.  He loves his dog friends so he has playdates and has been an amazing mentor to puppies.   He sees a Veterinarian who understands his anxiety about going to the Vet and works to help him feel safe during visits.  What became very clear is that he enjoys a very simple life, one without pressure and stressors.   This wonderful dog is my Hendrix :)    Making accommodations for your dog does not mean that your training has failed or that you need to keep trying to fix them. 

If your dogs is drowning in their fears......throw them a life jacket.


Wednesday, February 7, 2018

Making The Most Of Your Behavior Consultation

I've been working as a Behavior Consultant for over 15 years.  I work with puppies and adult dogs to address a wide range of behavioral concerns.  Some appointments are to help families get their new puppy or dog off to the right start, other appointments are to address  existing  problems.   When it comes to dealing with most behavior problems, a group class is not the answer, one-on-one training is the best option.  To help clients make the most of their appointment I suggest a little prep work prior to meeting.


  • Complete a Behavior Evaluation Form and return it to me prior to our appointment.  This allows me time to review and gather as much information as possible on your dogs day-to-day routine.  
  • Send short video clips of problematic behavior, being able to see your pup in action is very beneficial, especially when it's not always possible to replicate something during an appointment.  
  • Some problematic behavior can be due to an underlying medical condition, a Vet check up may be warranted for some pups prior to our meeting.
  • Bring any supplies, treats, toys needed to work with your pup during the appointment
  • Have a list of pertinent questions to go over
  • Give us permission to speak with your Vet both prior to and after the appointment if needed
A Behavior Consultation is 'your time'  to get the help you need for your pup and I want to make the most of this appointment for my clients.    

Sunday, January 21, 2018

Making The Most Out Of A Group Class

Attending a group class with your puppy or dog is a great way to get your training off to a good start.  There are things you can do to make the experience positive for you and your pup.

Showing up for class can be overwhelming for many students....new place.....new people.....new dogs....it can be stressful for everyone.   For some puppies and dogs it may be the first time they've left their home.  Many puppies and dogs have never been around other dogs, now their surrounded by a room full of them.  For some people this may be the first time you've done formal training with your dog, so you're feeling a little anxious.

For all incoming students I hold New Student Orientation, which is held the first week of class for humans only.  This gives me time to prepare students for the following weeks of class and send them home prepared for when the dogs attend.

When the first class with dogs arrives, here are some things to consider:

  • Prior to coming to class, let your instructor know of any special accommodations you will need, i.e.,  help getting into the building, help unloading your dog from your vehicle, a place to sit during class, etc.  
  • Arrive at least 15 minutes early the first week of class to give your puppy/dog time to check out the training center and use the bathroom 
  • If you have a puppy or dog that is pulling on leash, have them wear a body harness or head halter.  Make sure it's on them prior to entering the building 
  • Have an ample supply of training treats for your puppy/dog
  • Bring something for your puppy/dog to chew on during class
  • Enter class and go to your designated place and refrain from allowing your dog to wander in class as this is often stressful for other dogs and handlers 
  • Save socializing with human classmates for the end of class as this is disruptive for other students and the instructor
  • Give your puppy/dogs breaks as needed, an hour can be a very long time, some pups/dogs need a few short walks outdoors to break up the hour
  • Refrain from ALL on-leash greetings unless directed by the Instructor
  • Ask for help as needed, don't struggle in silence 
  • Keep your puppy/dog home if they are not feeling well 
I've been running group classes for over 18 years and love it, there's never a dull moment.  My goal is to make it an enjoyable and educational experience for humans and canines.  I keep my class sizes small so that I can give attention to all of the students.   Just as students don't enjoy feeling overwhelmed, neither does the Instructor.   While group classes are a great training option, it's not for every dog or human.  Some pups and/or humans require private sessions for a variety of reasons.  It's always best to share any concerns you have prior to the start of class so that you can pick the best training option.  



Saturday, September 23, 2017

Housebreaking............Give It Time




Having raised alot of puppies I have very realistic goals when it comes to the housebreaking process. I do not expect any puppy to be housebroken, meaning absolutely no accidents until they are close to 6 months of age. This can vary based on breed as toy breeds tend to require even more time. Then you can factor in any health issues like UTI's or intestinal parasites and BAM.......all your best efforts can be derailed.


If there is one thing my puppy clients talk about it's the importance of getting their puppy housebroken immediately. Of course no one enjoys a puppy eliminating in the house, but most people have set the bar way to high for their little pup which results in frustration for all involved. It's just not realistic to expect a young puppy to be housebroken no matter what you've read on google :) If you are one of the very few people who've experienced a completely housebroken 8 week old puppy, you're in the minority. The average pet parent, myself included can plan on doing lots of 'clean ups' the first few weeks, if not months.


Let's first look at the process the puppy is going thru when learning to follow the rules for housebreaking. ]
  1.  They have to be physically able to hold their bladder/bowel for extended periods of time.
  2. They have to learn to connect and execute the message from their bladder/bowel to their brain that says 'hey I gotta go' 
  3. They have to share this information with the humans in a way that is understood 
  4. They need the humans to give them immediate access to the bathroom area
  5. The Humans need to be consistent and available for this process to work
When housebreaking goes sideways there may be a number of things happening: 
  1. The puppy may have too much freedom and/or lack of supervision. By using crates, gates and other barriers, you restrict your puppies ability to wander and have unsupervised accidents.  Being confined also allows them to feel the 'need' to go and notify the humans rather than just having accidents on the floor.  As your puppy slowly graduates to freedom you want to limit the area in your home to a single room, gradually expanding the area as the accidents decrease. 
  2. There is not a consistent schedule of getting the puppy outside as often as they need. Puppies need to have access to the bathroom area throughout the day and at night for many weeks.  
  3. The puppy is being taken out too often......yep that can be problematic too as the puppy is not slowly learning to hold their bladder/bowel. Too often people think that by taking their puppy outside every 30-60 minutes during the day and waking them up at night, that they are speeding up the housebreaking process.   I personally never wake a sleeping puppy unless I'm going somewhere and need to give them the opportunity to eliminate before I leave. I don't wake puppies at night either, I let their body decide when they need to go out and act accordingly.
  4. Any type of infection or illness can make it physically impossible for a puppy to hold their bladder/bowel. If you were having good success and it suddenly goes backwards, a trip to the Vet is warranted.
Things you can do to help your puppy:

  1. Be patient and available :)  If you can't be home for long stretches of time get backup help
  2. Keep them away from areas that are hard to clean such as carpet and area rugs. This will keep them from smelling their scent and wanting to return for their next bathroom break
  3. Develop a clear exit route that has easy and quick access, using the same exit will help the puppy learn the routine 
  4. Keep them on a feeding schedule and remove water 1-2 hours before bedtime. 
  5. NEVER scold or punish them for having accidents
  6. ALWAYS reward and praise them for getting it right! 
  7. Don't go barefoot for a while........*grin*
If you find yourself struggling with the process seek help from a dog professional, sometimes all you need are a few tweaks in your routine.